Mas Coutelou Matubu 2020 Vin de France

The Carignan and Grenache are whole-bunch fermented (i.e. sort of semi-carbonic maceration), whilst the Syrah is pressed before fermentation. Apparently, this blend was made because it was what was left over after most of Jeff's other wines were put together - the idea being to make a relatively cheap wine for early drinking. The colour is dark ruby red, virtually opaque at the core, leading to a narrow rim. As with pretty much every Mas Coutelou wine, the aromas simply leap out of the glass - in this case, we have a mix of fresh red and black berry fruits, flowers, leather and damp earth, with further notes of tobacco and garam masala developing, with air. And whilst the deep colour suggests quite a big, strapping youth of a wine (which of course it is), the strong tannic backbone and spiky acidity is more than matched by its sheer depth of fruit. The flavours are slightly weighted towards the red end of the spectrum, with sweet raspberry, redcurrant and blackberry, countered by sour red cherry and soft citrus, and again a hint of exotic spice - all of which adds up to a wonderfully sweet-sour, tangy wine, of genuine depth, complexity and elegance. Once again, we have a wine which is so drinkable in its youth, yet has the structure to age and evolve for a few years yet. A seriously good wine - probably more serious than its bargain price suggests it was meant to be. A must buy.