Chateau La Dournie Etienne 2017 Saint-Chinian

60% Syrah, 25% Carignan, 15% Grenache, aged for 12 months in barrel, followed by 12 months in tank. Despite its 4-plus years of age (tasted March 2022) this still has a youthful dark cherry colour, with a narrow rim. There's a genuine whiff of fine wine here, with aromas of black cherry, cassis and damp undergrowth, subtle notes of parma violets, black olive, crushed black pepper and garrigue herbs. The palate is similarly complex and truly elegant, with myriad tangy red and black fruit and savoury (herby, rather than meaty) flavours and a hint of pepper and spice, all of which combine seamlessly with fine gently grippy, lapsang tea-like tannins and juicy cherry kernel/orange acidity. And although 2 years of ageing in barrel and tank have smoothed some of its sharp edges, it still has a certain restrained power, which suggests it has a good few years to go yet, before it reaches its apogee. A truly fine wine, and the best vintage of this cuvée yet.